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Square Emerald Heritage • Windmill Faceting

Asscher Cut Lab Diamonds.
Art Deco Windmill Glamour.

Originally created in 1902 by the legendary Asscher brothers in Amsterdam, the Asscher cut lab grown diamond (Square Emerald Cut) features steep step facets, deeply cropped octagonal corners, and a mesmerizing central "windmill" optical pattern. Hand-faceted in our Surat ateliers with certified IGI and GIA grading at direct factory wholesale prices.

View Carat Price Guide
IGI & GIA Graded Distinctive Windmill Pattern Free Insured USA Delivery
Asscher Cut Lab Grown Diamond Ring
Art Deco Asscher
74 Step Facets
Facet Structure
58 or 74 Step Facets
Square Ratio
1.00 – 1.05 (Square)
Table %
60.0% – 68.0%
Total Depth %
64.0% – 72.0%
✦ Direct Factory Value ✦

Asscher Cut Lab Diamond Price Guide

Compare Surat factory direct wholesale prices for certified IGI & GIA Asscher Cut CVD diamonds against standard US retail jewelry stores.

1.50 CARAT

1.50ct Asscher Cut

Vintage 1920s Art Deco elegance with hypnotic windmill pattern and cropped octagonal corners.

Surat Factory Price: $520 – $750 USD
US Retail Store: $2,200 – $3,000
Mined Asscher Cut: $8,000+
ART DECO GEM
2.50 CARAT

2.50ct Asscher Cut

Magnificent depth and optical symmetry (~7.5 × 7.5mm) with crystalline hall-of-mirrors fire.

Surat Factory Price: $890 – $1,250 USD
US Retail Store: $4,200 – $5,800
Mined Asscher Cut: $20,000+
3.50+ CARAT

3.50ct+ Asscher Cut

Heirloom museum-level diamond with deep pavilion steps projecting endless concentric light flashes.

Surat Factory Price: $1,450 – $2,100 USD
US Retail Store: $7,800 – $11,000
Mined Asscher Cut: $42,000+
Seeking an Eye-Clean VVS/VS Asscher with a Bold Windmill?

Because Asscher cuts draw the gaze deep into the center, clarity and step symmetry are critical. Request 360° HD videos, facet diagrams, and digital IGI certs from our Surat workshop.

✦ The Heritage of Amsterdam ✦

The Iconic "Windmill" Optical Pattern

Patented in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, the Asscher cut is celebrated as the pinnacle of geometric Art Deco design. It is cut as a square step cut with large, deeply cropped corners that give the diamond an octagonal shape in its setting.

The defining characteristic of an authentic Asscher cut is its **"windmill pattern"**—an optical effect where the step facets converging toward the center culet create an intricate "X" shape that resembles windmill blades. Combined with a higher crown and smaller table than standard emerald cuts, this draws light deep into the center of the gem, creating endless concentric reflections.

Cropped Octagonal Corners

Deep corner bevels allow the diamond to be mounted in 4 or 8-prong settings.

High Crown Dispersion

Produces intense spectral fire flashes uncommon in flat step cuts.

Asscher Cut Buying Guide

Ratio: 1.00 – 1.04 True Square

Asscher cuts must be square to maintain symmetrical windmill convergence.

Clarity: Insist on VS1 or Higher

Because step cuts have open tables, inclusions in the center table are visible.

Color: D, E, or F Colorless

Colorless grades display pure icy transparency that elevates the Art Deco aesthetic.

✦ Handcrafted Fine Bridal ✦

Popular Asscher Engagement Ring Settings

The Asscher cut diamond is the ultimate choice for lovers of vintage jewelry and Art Deco glamour. Our Surat jewelers handcraft bespoke mountings in Solid Platinum 950, 14K/18K Yellow Gold, White Gold, and Rose Gold.

Vintage Milgrain Solitaire
Hand-engraved filigree work with beaded milgrain edges framing the octagonal corners.
Octagonal Pavé Halo
A frame of micro-diamonds following the cropped corners for dramatic vintage presence.
Art Deco Bezel Setting
Clean low-profile platinum rim outlining the geometric silhouette with zero prongs.
Three-Stone with Baguettes
Center Asscher diamond flanked by step-cut tapered baguette side diamonds.
Custom Asscher Cut Lab Diamond Ring
✦ Buyer Education ✦

Frequently Asked Questions

Key facts and guidance about certified Asscher cut lab created diamonds.

An Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond featuring deeply cropped corners (creating an octagonal perimeter), a smaller table, a higher crown, and steep pavilion step facets. It is renowned for creating an iconic "windmill" optical reflection pattern and vintage Art Deco glamour.

The windmill pattern is the signature optical hallmark of an Asscher cut. When viewing the diamond from above, the corner step facets converge toward the center culet, forming four distinct triangular blades that form an "X" shape resembling a windmill.

While both are step cuts with cropped corners, an **Emerald cut is rectangular (ratio 1.35 to 1.50)** with parallel step facets, while an **Asscher cut is square (ratio 1.00 to 1.04)** with deeply cut corners, larger step facets, and the signature windmill center convergence.

Because Asscher cuts feature clear, open step facets that allow an unobstructed view straight into the heart of the crystal, we strongly recommend **VS1 or VVS2 clarity**. This guarantees your diamond is 100% eye-clean with no distracting internal inclusions.

Direct from our Surat diamond factory, a certified 2 carat Asscher cut lab grown diamond (D-F Color, VVS/VS Clarity) costs between $720 and $1,050 USD. In US retail jewelry stores, the same diamond costs $3,000 to $4,200 USD, and a mined counterpart costs $18,000+.

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